Maarten Schäfer

We leave Manaus Harbour early in the morning, a speed boat taking us across the Rio Negro. After 30 minutes, we are put ashore at a tiny village where a minibus is waiting for us. From here we follow a trail through the woods. The trees get taller and the forest denser. More than an hour later we arrive at the end of the road.

“We’re here,” the driver says. We get out of the bus and look around.

“Where is here?” I ask.

Swimming withpink dolphinsin the Amazon Swimming with
pink dolphins
in the Amazon

We sit and wait, enjoying the silence. After 20 minutes another speed boat arrives. We travel along rivers and creeks and creeks and rivers. We see trees, trees and more trees.

“How is it possible to find your way through this labyrinth?” I ask the man steering the boat. “There are no signs and everything looks the same.”

The man doesn’t answer, so I sit back and enjoy the…

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